Paver Calculator
Calculate pavers, base material, sand, and edge restraints for patios, walkways, and driveways. Supports multiple patterns and sizes.
Calculate pavers, base material, sand, and edge restraints for patios, walkways, and driveways. Supports multiple patterns and sizes.
Proper paver installation requires compacted base, sand layer, and edge restraint for longevity.
Know your area. Know your paver size. Account for cuts. Get the base right. That's the formula. This calculator does the math fast, but understanding what goes into a paver installation keeps your project from becoming a nightmare.
Running Bond: Each row staggered by half a paver. Natural look, flows smooth. 5-10% waste. Most common. Looks good with rectangles.
Herringbone: Pavers alternate at 45-degree angles, creating a V-pattern. Professional, eye-catching. Lots of cutting. 15-20% waste. Harder to install but worth it for looks.
Basketweave: Two-paver alternating pattern (one vertical, one horizontal). Classic, woven look. Square pavers work best. 10-15% waste. Medium difficulty.
Straight Grid: Everything lines up perfectly. Fastest to install. Minimal waste. Modern aesthetic. 5-10% scrap.
Bad base, bad pavers. 4-6 inches of compacted gravel is standard. Compact in 2-inch lifts with a plate compactor. Heavy traffic or soft soil? Go 6 inches. Poor compaction is the #1 reason pavers sink and shift. You're not done until the base is solid.
1 inch of coarse ("concrete") sand. Not fine sand—fine sand packs too tight and holds water. The sand levels everything and lets you make fine adjustments during installation. After the pavers are down, polymeric sand locks the joints and stops weeds.
Pavers want to spread apart over time. Edge restraint holds them. Metal edging is professional and durable. Plastic is cheaper. Concrete curb is solid. Calculate the perimeter of your project for linear footage needed.
Polymeric: Premium. Locks joints, stops weeds, doesn't wash out. Requires 24-48 hours to cure before water. Costs 2-3x more but worth it. Lasts for years.
Regular sand: Cheap. Weeds grow through it. Washes out. Needs maintenance. Use only if drainage is critical or it's a temporary install.
On slopes: thicker base (5-6 inches), more compact. Aim for 1-2% slope for drainage (1 inch drop per 50 feet). Flat surfaces: slope away from buildings. Poor drainage kills installations. Water pools, pavers sink. Get drainage right from the start.
Straight grid and running bond: 5-10% waste. Herringbone: 15-20% (lots of angle cuts). Complex layouts: up to 25%. Always round up whole pavers when you order. Running short mid-job is painful.
| Paver Size | Pavers/Sq Ft (grid) | Pavers/Sq Ft (herringbone) | Weight (typical) | Best Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4×8" | 4.5 | 5.5 | 5-7 lbs | Walkways, small patios |
| 6×6" | 4.0 | 4.5 | 8-10 lbs | Patios, paths |
| 6×9" | 2.67 | 3.2 | 10-12 lbs | Running bond, driveways |
| 12×12" | 1.0 | 1.2 | 20-25 lbs | Large patios, driveways |
4x8": 4.5/sq ft. 6x6": 4.0/sq ft. 6x9": 2.67/sq ft. 12x12": 1.0/sq ft. Herringbone runs slightly higher because of the angled cuts. But the calculator handles all that math for you.
Patio: 4 inches. Heavy foot traffic: 4-5 inches. Driveway: 5-6 inches. Compaction matters more than total depth. Compact in 2-inch lifts with a plate compactor. Skimpy base = pavers sink.
Polymeric wins. No weeds, no washout, locks joints, low maintenance. Costs 2-3x more but it lasts. Regular sand is budget-friendly but weeds grow, sand washes, you'll be maintaining it constantly. Use polymeric if you care about the install.
No. Compacted gravel is standard and works fine. Concrete is overkill and expensive. Only go concrete if soil's trash or you're talking extreme heavy traffic. Gravel properly compacted does the job.
Herringbone looks sharp and professional but needs more cuts and skill. Running bond is faster, simpler, less waste. Herringbone if looks matter and budget's okay. Running bond if you want speed and durability.
