Sand Calculator

Which Sand Type Should You Actually Buy?

Look, sand is sand, right? Wrong. Using the wrong sand under your pavers is like using the wrong motor oil—it technically works for a while, but you'll pay for it later. Let's break this down so you pick the right stuff.

Masonry Sand — The Patio Standard

Masonry sand is your go-to for paver patios. It's medium-fine, slightly gritty (angular particles, not smooth), and it packs down solid. The particle size mix means it compacts together and creates a stable base. Screened and washed to get rid of excess dust. Most landscape supply yards have it in stock because contractors use it constantly. About 1.45 tons per cubic yard, which makes it one of the heavier sands. It's the workhorse—not fancy, just reliable.

Play Sand — Kids Only

Play sand is fine, soft, smooth, and screened to remove sharp bits and contaminants. Safe for barefoot kids and sandbox play. Lighter than masonry sand at 1.35 tons per yard. Don't use this for paver bases—it won't pack down and your pavers will shift. Keep it for actual sandboxes and play areas.

Leveling Sand — The Precision Option

Leveling sand splits the difference between masonry and play sand. Medium-fine, compacts moderately well, designed specifically to create smooth surfaces under pavers or tile. About 1.4 tons per yard. It's often paired with polymeric sand (the stuff that hardens between pavers). If you're fussy about getting a perfectly flat surface, this is your choice. It costs slightly more than masonry sand but it's worth it if you're doing high-end paver work.

Fill Sand — The Budget Choice (But Don't Use It Wrong)

Fill sand is coarse and economical—sometimes it's got a bit of clay mixed in, which is why it's darker. It's not screened as carefully as other types. Use it for leveling terrain before you put gravel down, or filling low spots. Never use it under pavers or in a sandbox. At 1.3 tons per yard, it's the lightest, which is why it's cheap. You get what you pay for—reliability-wise, anyway.

Paver Base Sand — Premium Stuff

This is sand engineered for paver installations. Controlled particle size, optimized for both drainage and compaction. It costs more than masonry sand (like $20-$28 per ton versus $18-$25 for masonry), but for large format pavers or high-end patios, it prevents settling and shifting. About 1.35 tons per yard. If you want your patio looking perfect in five years, this is the stuff.

The Math (Seriously, It's Easy)

So, we know—nobody likes equations. This one's actually painless. Measure three things, plug them in, done.

Here's the Formula

(Length in feet × Width in feet × Depth in inches) ÷ 324 = Cubic Yards

Why divide by 324? One cubic yard is 27 cubic feet. Since you're multiplying feet × feet × inches, you need to adjust. The calculator does this automatically, but now you know it's not magic.

The Process

1. Measure your area: Length and width in feet. For weird shapes, break it into rectangles and calculate separately.
2. Figure out depth: Check the table. Usually 1-2 inches for paver bases, more for leveling work.
3. Calculate: Multiply length × width × depth (in inches), divide by 324. Or use the calculator, which is why it exists.
4. Convert to tons: Multiply cubic yards by the sand type's weight (1.3-1.45 tons per yard).
5. Add 10%: You'll lose some to settling and spreading. Better to have extra than to run short and make a second trip.

Real Example: A 12×12 Patio in Chicago

Let's say you're laying a 12 ft × 12 ft patio with standard pavers. You need 2 inches of masonry sand (Chicago gets freeze-thaw, so you want a solid base). Math: (12 × 12 × 2) ÷ 324 = 0.89 cubic yards. At 1.45 tons per yard, that's 1.29 tons. Add 10% and order 1.42 tons. Your yard charges about $20 per ton, so you're looking at $28 for sand plus delivery (which might be free if you're buying gravel too).

How Deep Should Sand Actually Go?

Too shallow and your pavers sink. Too deep and you're wasting money. Here's the reality:

1 Inch — The Standard

Use 1 inch when your base is solid and well-compacted (gravel, existing concrete, firm clay). Good for normal residential patios with standard pavers. Any shallower and you can't level properly.

1.5-2 Inches — The Smart Choice for Big Pavers

Go 1.5-2 inches if you're using large format pavers (12" × 24" or bigger), or if your base soil is soft and sandy. Extra sand gives you forgiveness during installation and helps you handle slight dips in the base. Most pros do 2 inches because it prevents headaches.

0.5 Inch — Only for Resurfacing

You'll sometimes see 0.5 inch on existing concrete patios when you're laying pavers on top just for looks. Honestly? It's frustrating to level. Skip it if you can.

How Much Does Sand Weigh?

Weight varies by type. Here's dry sand at normal conditions:

Sand Plus Gravel — The Winning Combo

Pro move: 4 inches of gravel base, then 1-2 inches of sand on top. Gravel handles drainage and gives you solid support. Sand creates the level surface pavers actually sit on. Using sand straight on soil? You'll watch your patio sink into the ground within a couple years. Don't be that person. Do both layers.

Bulk Sand Versus Bagged Sand

Bulk sand costs $15-$35 per ton plus delivery. Bagged sand (50 lbs) is $5-$8 per bag, which works out to $200-$300 per ton. For anything over 1 ton, buy bulk. It's cheaper and you won't spend three hours loading bags into a cart. For small sandbox fills or tiny repairs, bags are convenient. Anything else, call a landscape supplier.

Getting Sand Ready Under Pavers

Half the job is prep work. Do it right and your pavers will be level for years. Rush it and you'll be releveling in a year.

Compact Everything Underneath

Use a hand tamper or mechanical compactor on the soil or gravel base. Stop it from sinking under paver weight. This is non-negotiable.

Spread Sand Level

Pour it across the area, spread it to depth (typically 1-2 inches). Use a 2×4 board or straightedge to screed it level—drag the board across with a sawing motion, filling low spots and shaving high spots.

Lightly Compact

One pass with a plate compactor. You want the sand stable but not so hard that pavers can't bed in slightly. This is a light touch, not a crush.

Check Level Again

After compacting, verify it's still level. Add more sand to any low spots you find.

Keep It Slightly Damp

Sand should be barely damp when you're leveling—not soggy. Dry sand is hard to work with, wet sand won't screed evenly. If it gets too wet, let it dry an hour before continuing.

Honest Talk: Don't Skip Landscape Fabric

Fabric under sand prevents soil from mixing up into it and cuts down on weeds. Costs $0.10-$0.30 per square foot. Use it for patio bases, pathways, anywhere you want low maintenance. It's not necessary for small decorative projects, but honestly, for patios you'll be walking on constantly? Worth it.

Sand Reference Chart