Stick Welding Rod Chart

SMAW electrode classification guide. Compare common rods (E6010, E6013, E7018, E7024) with tensile strength, position capability, coating type, and polarity requirements. Interactive filtering to find the right rod for your job.

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SMAW Electrode Reference

Rod Tensile (PSI) Position Coating Polarity Common Uses
E6010 62,000 All (FVOH) Cellulosic DC- (straight) Penetration, root pass, cast iron repair, field work
E6011 62,000 All (FVOH) Cellulosic AC & DC- Versatile, field work, AC power available, root pass
E6013 62,000 Flat & Horizontal Rutile AC & DC+ Beginner-friendly, easy arc, general structural, mild penetration
E7014 70,000 Flat & Horizontal Rutile (iron powder) AC & DC+ Higher deposition rate, structural, shipbuilding, fast travel
E7018 70,000 All (FVOH) Low-hydrogen (basic) DC+ (reverse) Thick plate, critical welds, lower hydrogen cracking, structural steel
E7024 70,000 Flat Only Iron powder AC & DC+ Flat position only, high deposition, mild penetration, fast travel
E308L-16 74,000 All (FVOH) Rutile (stainless) AC & DC+ Stainless steel (300 series), food equipment, tanks, corrosion resistance
E309L-16 74,000 All (FVOH) Rutile (stainless) AC & DC+ Dissimilar metal joining, stainless-to-mild steel, high-temp applications

Position Legend: F = Flat, V = Vertical, O = Overhead, H = Horizontal. Position capability determines which orientations the rod can be welded in successfully.

Breaking Down Electrode Codes

What Those Letters and Numbers Actually Mean

Every stick rod is marked with a code like E6010 or E7018. It's not random. The AWS (American Welding Society) came up with this system so you'd know exactly what you're buying without guessing.

Here's the breakdown:

Example: E7018 breaks down as 70,000 PSI strength, all-position capable, low-hydrogen basic coating. Not rocket science once you know the pattern.

Strength Ratings and When They Matter

The first two digits tell you how strong the weld is. E6010 deposits 62,000 PSI metal. E7018 deposits 70,000 PSI. That extra strength matters on thick plate and critical joints.

Here's the practical reality: For 1/2" plate and above, E7018 is your rod. For thin sheet and general fabrication, E6013 works fine. E7018 is harder to strike and requires more technique, but you get a better weld. Don't overthink it — most structural work uses E7018. Beginners should start with E6013, then move to E7018 once they understand arc control.

Position: Where You Can Actually Use the Rod

Some rods work in every position. Others are flat-only. The third digit tells you which:

E7018 works anywhere (FVOH). E7024 is flat-only — use it there and it's fast, but try it vertical and you'll get a puddle running down your plate. Check the position before buying. Using the wrong rod in the wrong spot = weak, ugly welds.

The Coating Makes the Difference

The fourth digit is all about what's covering the wire inside. Different coatings burn differently, shield differently, and need different polarity:

Pick the Right Rod for Your Job

Root passes on structural steel? E6010 or E6011. You need penetration, and these deliver it. E6013 if you're learning. Easy arc, doesn't bite, works on AC or DC+. Good for thin material. Not much strength though.

General structural work? E7014 or E7024 if you're laying beads flat. Fast. High deposition. E7018 is the workhorse — all positions, strong, industry standard. Yes, it needs oven storage and DC+ polarity. But that's what shops use for a reason. It works.

Polarity Matters More Than You Think

DC+ (reverse) digs deeper and handles thick plate better. DC- (straight) is lighter, faster, less aggressive. AC splits the difference but can be unstable. Match your rod to your machine. E7018 demands DC+. E6013 works with AC or DC+. E6010 needs DC-. Mismatch = bad arc.

Store Low-Hydrogen Rods Right or Regret It

7018 soaks up moisture from the air. Leave a box open overnight and the flux absorbs humidity — now your welds have hydrogen in them, and you'll get cracks in thick plate under stress. Rod ovens exist for a reason. 250-350°F until you use them. If rods get wet, dry them in an oven before striking arc. Cellulosic and rutile rods don't care about moisture. That's one less thing to worry about.

Cellulosic vs Rutile vs Basic: Quick Rundown

Cellulosic burns hot, cleans its own way, penetrates hard. Root passes, all positions, field work. More spatter, more cleanup. Rutile is smooth and easy — beginner-friendly, less spatter, but you're limited to flat and horizontal. Basic (7018) is the pro choice: clean, strong, no hydrogen issues, but requires storage and technique. Pick based on your job and skill level.

Frequently Asked Questions

E7018 is: E = electrode, 70 = 70,000 PSI strength, 1 = all positions, 8 = low-hydrogen coating. It's the standard for structural and critical welding because it works in any position and won't crack on thick plate. Most structural shops buy E7018 by the box.

E6013. Smooth arc, forgiving, works with AC or DC+. Limited to flat and horizontal, but that's fine while learning. Once you're comfortable with E6013, jump to E7018 and tackle all positions.

E6013 is easier and covers flat/horizontal only. E7018 is stronger, works everywhere, but needs DC+ and rod storage. E7018 for structural work, E6013 for learning or thin sheet.

E6010 and E6013 stay at room temperature. E7018 goes in a rod oven (250-350°F) because it absorbs moisture and then deposits hydrogen. Moisture = hydrogen = cracks. If rods get wet, dry them before using. Keep them in original containers.

E6010 or E6011. Cast iron cracks if you heat it too fast or cool it too hard. Use low amps, short beads, let it cool slow. E6010 penetrates deep and works in any position. Some guys use nickel rods (ENiFe-CI) which match cast iron composition better, but E6010 works.