Find Your Stick Amperage
Stick Electrode Amperage Reference
| Electrode | Diameter | Amp Range | Typical Start | Polarity | Positions |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| E6010 | 3/32" | 40–80A | 60A | DCEP (DC+) only | All positions |
| 1/8" | 75–125A | 100A | |||
| 5/32" | 90–175A | 130A | |||
| 3/16" | 140–225A | 180A | |||
| E6011 | 3/32" | 40–90A | 65A | AC or DCEP | All positions |
| 1/8" | 75–125A | 100A | |||
| 5/32" | 90–160A | 125A | |||
| 3/16" | 120–200A | 160A | |||
| E6013 | 3/32" | 45–90A | 70A | AC, DCEN or DCEP | All positions |
| 1/8" | 80–130A | 105A | |||
| 5/32" | 105–180A | 140A | |||
| 3/16" | 150–230A | 190A | |||
| E7014 | 3/32" | 80–125A | 100A | AC, DCEN or DCEP | All positions (best flat/horizontal) |
| 1/8" | 110–160A | 135A | |||
| 5/32" | 150–210A | 180A | |||
| 3/16" | 200–275A | 240A | |||
| E7018 | 3/32" | 70–120A | 95A | DCEP or AC | All positions |
| 1/8" | 90–160A | 125A | |||
| 5/32" | 130–220A | 175A | |||
| 3/16" | 180–280A | 230A | |||
| E7024 | 1/8" | 115–175A | 145A | AC, DCEN or DCEP | Flat and horizontal fillets only |
| 5/32" | 180–240A | 210A | |||
| 3/16" | 240–315A | 280A |
Ranges are typical manufacturer windows for mild steel electrodes. Brands differ by 10–20 amps, so the number printed on the rod box wins. Machine dials are also not perfectly calibrated; set by the puddle, not the knob.
Rod Size by Plate Thickness
| Plate Thickness | Rod Diameter | Passes (butt joint) |
|---|---|---|
| 1/16" | 1/16"–3/32" | 1 (E6013 is the forgiving choice) |
| 1/8" | 3/32"–1/8" | 1 |
| 3/16" | 1/8" | 1–2 |
| 1/4" | 1/8"–5/32" | 2–3, bevel recommended |
| 3/8" | 5/32" | 3+, bevel required for full penetration |
| 1/2" and up | 5/32"–3/16" | Multi-pass, root with 1/8" |
How to Set Stick Welding Amperage
The old shop rule still works as a first guess: about one amp for every thousandth of an inch of rod diameter. A 1/8" rod is 0.125", so it starts near 125 amps. A 3/32" rod (0.094") lands near 90. That rule gets you in the window; the chart above narrows it for the specific electrode, because a fast-freeze E6010 and an iron-powder E7024 of the same diameter want very different heat.
Set the machine in the middle of the range, strike on scrap that matches your work, and read the bead. Then move 5–10 amps at a time. Big jumps hide what actually changed.
Reading the Bead
Too cold: the rod sticks on the strike, the arc wanders, the bead sits tall and ropey on top of the plate with no wetting at the toes, and slag gets trapped. Add amps.
Too hot: heavy spatter, a wide flat bead, undercut along the edges, the rod glows red halfway down, and the flux cracks off the electrode before you burn it. Drop amps.
Right: a steady crackle like bacon in a pan, a bead that ties into both toes, and slag that peels off without much chipping.
Adjust for Position
Gravity changes everything. Flat and horizontal fillets run near the upper half of the range. For vertical-up and overhead work, drop 10–15% so the puddle freezes before it sags. E6010 and E7018 are the go-to rods out of position; E7024 is flat and horizontal only, and it is not meant for vertical or overhead work at any setting.
Polarity Matters as Much as Amps
Most modern stick work runs DCEP (electrode positive, sometimes written DC+ or "reverse polarity"). It digs deeper and gives the steadiest arc with E6010 and E7018. E6011 exists because it runs on AC, which is what many buzz-box machines put out. E6013 and E7024 run on either AC or DC; on DCEN (straight polarity) they melt off faster with shallower penetration, which helps on thin sheet.
Thin Metal Tips
Under 1/8", burn-through becomes the enemy. Drop to a 3/32" or 1/16" rod rather than turning a 1/8" rod way down, because a big rod at low amps sticks constantly. E6013 is the most forgiving rod on sheet metal. Keep a short arc, move faster, and stitch-weld instead of running one long bead.
Thick Metal Tips
On 1/4" and thicker, amperage alone won't get you full penetration on a square butt joint. Bevel the edges to about 30° per side, leave a small root gap, and build the joint up in passes. Run the root with a 1/8" E6010 or E7018, then fill and cap with 5/32" rods. Clean the slag completely between passes.
Low-Hydrogen Rods Need Dry Storage
E7018 only gives you its crack resistance if it stays dry. Once a sealed can is opened, rods belong in a rod oven, typically held around 250–300°F. Rods that sat out in a humid truck absorb moisture and can cause hydrogen cracking and porosity, especially on thicker or higher-carbon steel. Check the manufacturer's exposure limits and reconditioning temperatures before reusing them.
Frequently Asked Questions
Most 1/8" E7018 rods run between 90 and 160 amps. Start around 120–125A flat, drop to roughly 105–115A for vertical-up, and fine-tune 5 amps at a time. Run it on DCEP if your machine has DC.
A 1/8" E6013 typically runs 80–130 amps, with 105A a good starting point. It runs on AC or DC either polarity, which makes it a common choice for small buzz-box welders and sheet metal.
The rod sticks when you strike, the arc is hard to keep lit, and the bead stacks up tall without wetting into the edges. Slag can get trapped in the weld. Raise the amperage 5–10 amps and test again.
Yes. Drop roughly 10–15% from your flat setting for vertical-up and overhead so the puddle freezes before it drips. A slight weave or a whip-and-pause motion also helps control the shelf.
Use a 1/8" rod for the root pass and 1/8" or 5/32" for fill and cap. Bevel the joint for full penetration and expect two to three passes on a butt weld.
